Addis Ababa is an incredible city, and our agency has arranged for Embakom and I to have a tour with their driver, Solomon. Embakom likes Soloman, and I am anxious to see more of this great city so we're all excited as we head out. We see a lot out of a moving vehicle, not ideal but pretty impressive none-the-less: the Africa Hall, the palaces and the Parliament building, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the first modern school (which Menelik the II built in the 1880s), the Trinity Orthodox cathedral, the National Museum, the Addis Ababa University and the Addis Ababa Institute of Technology (A'AIT ). Arat Kilo Avenue is marked by a statue built in commemoration of the Ethiopian V-day during the Second World War, while Sidest Kilo Avenue is marked by a statue commemorating 39,000 residents of Addis Ababa killed by Italian fascist troops.
We stop at an open market called Shiro Meda where craftsmen sell clothes, pottery, jewellery etc., and we find a traditional outfit for Embakom. That market place is at the foot of the Entoto Mountain, which we drive up to see the first churches of Addis Ababa (St. Mary and St. Raguel) and the many faithful who gather in the churchyards seeking aid or miracles. Walking on the mountain paths gives us a chance to see rural life, the city from above, and beautiful landscape intersected by farmlands and trails of farmers. It is from here that Menelik II and Queen Taitu conceived of the establishment Addis Ababa. The road is, like always, crowded with people (especially children), vehicles, donkeys, goats, horses...
We visit the merkato next, the largest outdoor market in the world, and you can get anything there, but really, there is nothing to buy that isn't kind of junky. It's huge and busy, sort of like Tijuana, the Medina at Fez, and the Istanbul Grand Bazaar all rolled into one. I suspect it's not very safe for Ferengi but I have a good guide in Solomon. He wants to help me haggle, too, but I refuse (Imbee!). Embakom has had enough, so we head back to the guesthouse, stopping for fresh buna (coffee) and bags of beans to take home at Tamoca on the way - I do love a souvenir whose smell and taste brings you back to a place, think I'll brew a cuppa right now!
Addis sits at about 10,500 ft above sea level. A lot of tourists complain about the altitude, but my Banff days have prepared me I guess, I don't seem to notice it. I do suffer from the pollution, and so many Ethiopian children arrive showing symptoms of respiratory ailments, but thankfully most are fine after a few months in Canada. Remember, they still offer a choice of regular or unleaded fuel in Ethiopia! I am constantly reminded on our tour of a level of poverty that I've never seen before in my travels, and of a political leadership that doesn't seem to have a will for change, but am trying to record in my memory mostly positive impressions of these warm and friendly people that Embakom will want to know about when he's older.
After a rest, we're off again to a "traditional Ethiopian Dinner" which I suspect is more touristy than traditional, but with folk musicians and dancers and lots of Ethiopian dishes to try, it's a terrific treat! What a spectacular way to end our last full day in Addis Ababa.
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